Dover Meet, Moday June 30

To Do List for Dover DE Studebaker International Meet

Thought I would gen up a list of to dos before the Dover meet. The meet will be 100+ miles away and our stay will be ~week so I'll need to be prepared for what can happen.

1. Install hitch

• Drill, weld and paint

2. Install trailer light converter

• Finish building converter
• Build outlet
• Route wiring

3. Linseed oil truck
4. Treat bed and stakes
5. Install CDI ignition

• Move bull horn
• Mount CDI box
• Rewire ignition w/connectors
• Build
• Test distributor points plate
• Test w/CDI, old school, & Pertronix, verify timing

6. Install Sun Tach

• Move bull horn
• Build battery-less sensor box
• Bench test
• Mount sensor box
• Wire up
• Mount Tach

7. Install Spotlight

• Drill and mount
• Wire

8. Pack

• Starter
• Carb
• Distributor plate w/Pertronix
• Tools
• Fan belt
• Motor oil
• Coolant
• Gear oil (tranny & differential)
• Fuses
• Spark plugs
• Coil
• Spare keys
• Gasket Sealer

8. Grease chassis

• Drag link
• Tie rod
• King pins
• Drive shaft slip joint
• U-Joints
• Clutch/brake shaft

9. Oil change

• Stop leak
• Filter
• Change diaper

10. Clean and oil air filter
11. Check tire pressure
12. Check fluids

• Tranny
• Differential
• Coolant
• Brakes

Ignition Update

Basically I wanted to get away from the Pertronix system and use a CDI system. I chose a Tiger SST CDI because it was in kit form which made it lower cost on ebay. I am also replacing the crappy tach I have with a Sun vintage tach. I found a 0-4,000 RPM sun tach on ebay and plan to do the solid state conversion upgrade to the module eliminating the batteries but retaining the vintage look. I plan to change the wiring so that I can disconnect the CDI to switch to old school points or Pertronix giving me some good road side quick repair options. I'll carry with me two distributor plates, one old school points for the CDI and old school. The other plate will have the Pertronix mounted on it.

 System with CDI unit

 Old school system

 Pertronix

Sun module conversion

Night Shot (Pre-install)

Beacon Lamps

Beacon lamps arrived today. These are low wattage 60 LED PAR-36 lamps installed into a beacon warning light. The motor draws about 2 amps at 12 volts and the two lamps draw about 1/2 amp so with the 6 to 12 volt converter the draw is 4 amps at 6 volt.

Trailer Hitch

I bought all this at Del City. They carry Curt products. This is a weld on version. I won't be using the 5/16" thick end plates but will instead use 3/8" thick 5"x5" angle iron to mount the ends and 4"x1/4" support straps that will utilize the frame cross member bolts.

Battery & Cable Upgrade

I upgraded my battery and cables. I chose two 6 volt Optima in parallel and 4/0 cables all around ( http://www.delcity.net/store/4:0-Gauge-Battery-Cable/p_804958.h_804965.t_1 ). The cable is a bit stiff so planning was needed to make sure the terminals were oriented correctly. I used the Fusion terminals which are copper cast tin plated ( http://www.delcity.net/store/Flag-Barrel-Fusion-Battery-Terminals/p_804157 ). These terminals already have the solder and flux built into them so heating and inserting the cable is all that is needed. I wrapped the insulation in a wet rage to help reduce it melting and I covered the terminal ends with heat shrink ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=YIe-2vUwXqw ). Truck starts much better and I now have 1,600 CCA.

 Start solenoid connections

 Ground Connection

 Other ground lead connected to ground junction block

 Twin batteries connected in parallel

The black box is the relay box that I added to switch the high current loads, headlights, fog lights...

 

One hot lead goes to the start solenoid and the other (shown here) connects to a 60 amp Maxi fuse that then feeds the ammeter in the dash