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Studebaker M15A-20 "Mr. Potato Head"

Friday, March 28, 2014

Night Shot (Pre-install)


video


Beacon Lamps

Beacon lamps arrived today. These are low wattage 60 LED PAR-36 lamps installed into a beacon warning light. The motor draws about 2 amps at 12 volts and the two lamps draw about 1/2 amp so with the 6 to 12 volt converter the draw is 4 amps at 6 volt.

video

video



Wednesday, March 26, 2014

Trailer Hitch

I bought all this at Del City. They carry Curt products. This is a weld on version. I won't be using the 5/16" thick end plates but will instead use 3/8" thick 5"x5" angle iron to mount the ends and 4"x1/4" support straps that will utilize the frame cross member bolts.




Friday, February 28, 2014

Battery & Cable Upgrade

I upgraded my battery and cables. I chose two 6 volt Optima in parallel and 4/0 cables all around ( http://www.delcity.net/store/4:0-Gauge-Battery-Cable/p_804958.h_804965.t_1 ). The cable is a bit stiff so planning was needed to make sure the terminals were oriented correctly. I used the Fusion terminals which are copper cast tin plated ( http://www.delcity.net/store/Flag-Barrel-Fusion-Battery-Terminals/p_804157 ). These terminals already have the solder and flux built into them so heating and inserting the cable is all that is needed. I wrapped the insulation in a wet rage to help reduce it melting and I covered the terminal ends with heat shrink ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=YIe-2vUwXqw ). Truck starts much better and I now have 1,600 CCA.

 Start solenoid connections

 Ground Connection

 Other ground lead connected to ground junction block

 Twin batteries connected in parallel

The black box is the relay box that I added to switch the high current loads, headlights, fog lights...
 
One hot lead goes to the start solenoid and the other (shown here) connects to a 60 amp Maxi fuse that then feeds the ammeter in the dash

Saturday, November 23, 2013

Carter WE Assembly and Adjusting

With all parts cleaned up, body painted, and some parts Nickel plated, assembly and adjustment is next. I decided to make fabric reinforced neoprene gaskets to see if they work better than what came in the rebuild kit. The gaskets supplied crush over time and everything needed to be re-tightened and they wicked fuel.

All the parts to put together the carburetor less the assembly screws, where did they go?

First to install is the accelerator pump inlet check valve ball and retainer

Here is the accelerator pump well where the valve goes

Check valve installed

Next is the accelerator pump outlet check valve ball and retainer screw

The accelerator pump outlet check valve well

Accelerator pump outlet check valve installed

Next is the accelerator pump jet and cover screw

Accelerator pump jet well

Accelerator pump jet installed

Accelerator pump jet cover screw installed
 
Main jet

Main jet well

Main jet installed

Idle well jet

Idle well

Idle well jet installed

Main discharge jet

Main discharge well

Main discharge jet installed

Main discharge well cover screw

Main discharge well

Main discharge cover screw installed

Throttle body main components

Throttle shaft installed and throttle plat in place

Install throttle plate retaining screws

Throttle shaft end retaining screw and slave actuator

Throttle shaft end retaining screw and slave actuator installed

Loosen both screws and close throttle plate all the way to seat the throttle plate. Work the throttle shaft back and forth to verify smooth operation. Next loosen one screw.

On the opposite side dab some thread locker into the screw hole then tighten the screw. repeat with the other screw.

Install the idle mixture adjusting screw and spring

Vacuum advance  fitting

Vacuum advance fitting with thread sealer and flare fitting ready for installation. Adding the flare fitting before installing helps strengthen the fitting for installation

Throttle body complete

Air horn housing and choke components

Install spring onto fast idle cam and install cam

Install choke shaft and vacuum unloader piston. Use a pin to align the hole in the piston with the actuator and then insert the retaining pin

Vacuum unloader piston installed

Install fast idle link

Install unloader arm

Install choke cover plate

Install choke cover gasket

Install choke plate and retaining screws

Loosen one screw and apply a dab of thread locker to the screw hole. Tighten screw and remove excess thread locker. Do the same to the other retaining screw.

Install choke bi-metal actuator spring

Install choke cover

Install choke cover retaining screws and clips

Bowl cover and components

Assemble main jet metering rod with spring and link

Assemble accelerator pump actuator linkage

Install accelerator pump linkage on bowl cover

Install main metering rod and linkage into bowl cover

Install accelerator pump plunger and link. Then install link retaining clip

Bowl vent valve and hinge pin. The old valve sealing material was old and dry so I replaced it with fabric reinforced neoprene.

Install bowl vent valve

Float valve seat

Install float valve seat

Float, float valve and retaining pin

Float valve installed

Install float and retaining pin

Fuel inlet screen and cover screw

Screen installed. then install cover screw with gasket

Install metering rod vacuum piston on metering rod link

Insert accelerator pump and metering rod piston springs into their wells

Install bowl cover carefully aligning the metering rod, metering rod vacuum piston and accelerator pump plunger into carburetor body

Install carburetor body/throttle body gasket

Mate carburetor body with throttle body and attach with retaining screws

Throttle body attached

Don't forget the bowl vent valve spring... And install the throttle shaft link.

Apply the carburetor body/air horn gasket

Attach the airhorn with retaining screws

Assemble the fast idle link

Install fast idle link

Cover and retaining screw

Cover installed

Assembled carburetor

Assembled carburetor

Adjustment instructions and adjustment tools

Remove and invert bowl cover and adjust float to specification of 1/4"

Return bowl cover upright and adjust to specification of 1.2"

Measuring the accelerator upstroke dimension

Measuring the accelerator pump down stroke dimension. The difference between these two measurements should be 17/64"

Remove metering rod and replace with adjusting tool and verify proper dimension. The edge of the gauge should just touch the pin.

Close throttle plate on 0.030" wire gauge

 Check bowl vent valve dimension to be between 0.0005" and 0.015"

Measure fat idle with a 0.054" wire gauge
 
Insert 3/16" gauge into choke plate/airhorn bore to measure full throttle unloader specification
 
Adjust full throttle unloader arm to meet specification