M-Series Vent Trap

I installed a stereo and needed something to prevent the probable water from destroying it from the vent left open. So I decided to add a trap to allow the air to come in and trap the water. There is a bit more resistance to the air coming in but I think that is a good trade off to a destroyed stereo.

I installed the stereo in the center, set back a bit. I plan to put super magnets on the cover if I need to hide the stereo.

So I made a crude trap out of cardboard for test fitting.

After all the fitting and testing, I then made another trap using thin cardboard for a sheet metal pattern.

Tracing the pattern onto the aluminum sheet metal.

Sheet metal cut out.

Assembled using tape.

Right hand neoprene glove about to give up the thumb.

Thumb cut out.

To seal the thumb tip to the vent actuator arm, I'm epoxying a copper pipe section onto it.

Thumb installed.

Drain outlet installed. I used aluminum pop rivets throughout.

Installing the trap using ty-wraps to attach the thumb tip to the actuator arm. Note the inside of the trap is coated with Hirsch's gas tank sealer for S & G's.

 

Thumb tip ty-wrapped down.

Installing brackets.

Ready for drain hose.

 

Drain hose installed.

 Drain hose installed.

More Video

Radiator Install

I installed a radiator from Summit Racing. I could not fine a radiator with the correct size ports so I decided to use the stainless steel hoses because that come with adapters. I think the hoses are great but the connectors are not so hot. The clamps are to small and you have to be careful not to strip them. I didn't have any leaks so I guess I can't complain to much. Because the radiator does not have an angle outlet like the original radiator, I had to lower it in the mount so the lower radiator hose clears the engine. I had to purchase some 1" aluminum angle to mount to the original mounting hole and to space it out from the mount. I also had to trim the lower apron to clear the radiator. Because I had to lower the radiator I could have bought a taller one to maximize the cooling capacity.

Idle Mixture

Oil Pan Leak

Looks like a small leak at the rear of the oil pan

 

Oil Pressure Update

I installed a gauge at the oil galley to verify the dash gauge accuracy. Well, the dash gauge reads low. The gauge I used is off my AC Freon charging gauge set so I suspect that it is accurate. The oil is Rotella-T1 30WT mono-grade w/ZDDP additive.

 Idle, operating temperature = 13 lbs

At 1,500-2,000 RPM (estimate) = 50lbs

Video of oil pressure peak = 65lbs

After carb and timing adjusted

Startup

This is the first time I have started the engine after the rebuild.

Throttle Linkage