StudeM15A-20

Care and Maintenance of Your Farm Truck

2012-01-20T18:49:00.000-08:00

I just bought this manual off ebay. Here are a few pages:

External Antenna on an M-Series

2012-01-10T13:43:00.000-08:00

Select where you want your antenna. I picked the rear of the cab because it is the most horizontal surface.

Place tape where the bottom hole is to be, mark and drill pilot hole. Then using a level, draw a line up to where the top will be.

Before drilling the bottom hole, make sure it clears the internal cross brace.

Mark where top hole will be and verify it also clears the upper cross brace.

Withe both pilot holes drilled, now drill the correct hole size and debur.

Remove tape and treat holes edges to prevent rust.

Mount antenna. I adjusted mine to be below the cab top when fully collapsed.

Connect antenna lead.

Attach Gadsden flag with ty-wraps.

M-Series Vent Trap

2011-12-24T11:05:00.000-08:00

I installed a stereo and needed something to prevent the probable water from destroying it from the vent left open. So I decided to add a trap to allow the air to come in and trap the water. There is a bit more resistance to the air coming in but I think that is a good trade off to a destroyed stereo.

I installed the stereo in the center, set back a bit. I plan to put super magnets on the cover if I need to hide the stereo.

So I made a crude trap out of cardboard for test fitting.

After all the fitting and testing, I then made another trap using thin cardboard for a sheet metal pattern.

Tracing the pattern onto the aluminum sheet metal.

Sheet metal cut out.

Assembled using tape.

Right hand neoprene glove about to give up the thumb.

Thumb cut out.

To seal the thumb tip to the vent actuator arm, I'm epoxying a copper pipe section onto it.

Thumb installed.

Drain outlet installed. I used aluminum pop rivets throughout.

Installing the trap using ty-wraps to attach the thumb tip to the actuator arm. Note the inside of the trap is coated with Hirsch's gas tank sealer for S & G's.

Thumb tip ty-wrapped down.

Installing brackets.

Ready for drain hose.

Drain hose installed.

Radiator Install

2011-12-17T07:53:00.000-08:00

I installed a radiator from Summit Racing. I could not fine a radiator with the correct size ports so I decided to use the stainless steel hoses because that come with adapters. I think the hoses are great but the connectors are not so hot. The clamps are to small and you have to be careful not to strip them. I didn't have any leaks so I guess I can't complain to much. Because the radiator does not have an angle outlet like the original radiator, I had to lower it in the mount so the lower radiator hose clears the engine. I had to purchase some 1" aluminum angle to mount to the original mounting hole and to space it out from the mount. I also had to trim the lower apron to clear the radiator. Because I had to lower the radiator I could have bought a taller one to maximize the cooling capacity.

Idle Mixture

2011-12-17T07:32:00.000-08:00

Oil Pan Leak

2011-12-17T07:29:00.000-08:00

Looks like a small leak at the rear of the oil pan

Oil Pressure Update

2011-12-09T07:31:00.001-08:00

I installed a gauge at the oil galley to verify the dash gauge accuracy. Well, the dash gauge reads low. The gauge I used is off my AC Freon charging gauge set so I suspect that it is accurate. The oil is Rotella-T1 30WT mono-grade w/ZDDP additive.

Idle, operating temperature = 13 lbs

At 1,500-2,000 RPM (estimate) = 50lbs

Video of oil pressure peak = 65lbs

After carb and timing adjusted

2011-12-08T11:11:00.001-08:00

Startup

2011-12-08T10:34:00.001-08:00

This is the first time I have started the engine after the rebuild.

Throttle Linkage

2011-12-07T12:22:00.001-08:00

Correct Pilot Bearing

2011-11-30T16:43:00.001-08:00

After installing the transmission and then installing the engine into the truck I worried that there was something wrong because difficulty bolting it up. So I pressed the clutch, put the transmission in high gear, and tried rotating the transmission output shaft. It took a breaker bar and a 4' pipe to turn it - not good!! So I pulled the engine, removed the transmission and dismantled the clutch. I found that the pilot bearing was not fully pressed into the flywheel. The pilot bearing was distorted from the it's installation and it appeared to be the wrong part. The transmission input shaft would not slide into the pilot bearing. I removed it and ordered the correct bearing. The correct bearing was shorter and the correct inside and outside dimension. It pressed into the flywheel with little effort and slides nicely onto the transmission input shaft. I put everything back together and installed the engine back into the truck. I then preformed the same test and the transmission output shaft now spins freely by hand...

New correct pilot bearing slips onto transmission nicely

Installing new bearing

As I tapped the bearing in I checked squareness with calipers

New bearing installed

New installed bearing slides nicely onto the transmission input shaft

Flywheel install on crankshaft

I left the pressure plate loosely mounted on the flywheel and used the transmission input shaft to align the clutch plate, then tightened the pressure plate

I used grease to determine how far in the the input shaft engaged the pilot bearing

Transmission mouted and ready to go into the truck

2011-11-22T16:01:00.001-08:00

Late afternoon...Waiting...

Finally shows at 6:30, to late to install, will have to sit in the rain till morning. Shipper put the engine pallet on a standard pallet so first thing is to slide it off the standard pallet.

Morning. Still drizzling... Slide it off the standard pallet, removed sides and positioned the hoist.

Wife had a good idea, just drape the entire thing with plastic.

Off the engine pallet.

First thing, mount the tranny.

Having a hard time mounting the tranny. Had to "pull" them together with the mounting bolts. Worried about using force so I removed the tranny and checked everything out. All looked good so back together they went. This time it went on easier. I did have to "shade tree" realign the clutch, probably moved in shipping.

Tranny installed.

Here we go... My plan is to install the tranny top before final bolt down.

Almost.

Installed! Now for the rest of the crap...

Here is a list of all what the rebuilders did:

Qty     Description
1.00    Teardown motor
1.00    Bake Blast Block
1.00    Bake blast crank
1.00    Bake blast head
1.00    Crack repair and PT block
1.00    Lot wash parts
1.00    Magnaflux block
1.00    Magnaflux crank
1.00    Magnaflux head
6.00    Re-size big end
1.00    Bore and hone block
1.00    Resurface head
1.00    Deck block, 6cyl
1.00    Grind camshaft
1.00    Grind crank
1.00    Dynamic Balancing
1.00    R&R cam bearings
1.00    R&R freezeplugs
1.00    Assemble motor
1.00    Paint and materials
1.00    R&R ring gear
1.00    Ring gear
1.00    Engine kit
12.00 Machine and install stellite seats
12.00 Stellite seats
12.00 Grind seats
1.00    Resurface flywheel
12.00 R&R valve guides
1.00    Rebuild starter
1.00    Inbound freight
1.00    Heater valve
1.00    Oil pickup screen
20.00 Headbolt
1.00    Front damper cushion
6.00    Wrist pin bolt
1.00    Shaft
1.00    Bushing and retainer
1.00    Camshaft thrust plate
1.00    Spacer,camshaft
1.00    Oil filter decal
1.00    Rebuild clutch assy.
1.00    Outbound freight

Engine Done, Ready to Come Home

2011-11-01T13:56:00.000-07:00

Nearly Done

2011-10-17T10:39:00.000-07:00

Valve & Piston Install

2011-10-13T17:47:00.000-07:00

Cam Reground, Springs Installed, & Clutch Shaft

2011-10-06T09:59:00.000-07:00

"You’re correct about the cam as they “parkerize” it for break in .It is a Phosphate coating."

Clutch Intall

2011-09-27T14:44:00.000-07:00

Crank & Backing Plate Install

2011-09-26T17:46:00.001-07:00

Crankshaft and Flywheel Balancing

2011-09-24T11:07:00.000-07:00

New SS Exhaust

2011-09-14T12:54:00.000-07:00

I just received the Waldron's exhaust exhaust system. It is basically an OEM stainless steel system except I opted for the "Imposted" muffler which is their full flow muffler, how much noise can a little six make? No damage despite the creative packing.

How UPS left it

Lots of tape...

Pipe sticking out the end but well wraped with cardboard...

The system. Imposter muffler that is constructed to appear OEM. Front pipe (1-3/4"), tail pipe (1-1/2"), SS clamps, and hangers. Tail pipe exits just behind the rear wheel based on my crud initial measurements. Besides having a hole in the muffler and an obvious hodge podge system I have now, I wanted a new system because the old system was routed too close to the starter. It was about 1/4" away, not good for the starter. With this SS system I will never have to replace it again! Total system cost including clamps & shipping: $523.00.

Beginning Engine Reassembly

2011-09-09T10:28:00.000-07:00

Harmonic Balancer, New Oil Pump, & Release Bearing

2011-09-07T16:17:00.000-07:00

Harmonic Balancer & Pulley Ready for Paint

New Oil Pump

Old Release Bearing

New Release Bearing

Block Washing

2011-09-07T14:56:00.000-07:00

We wash the parts and blocks in a water based machine. The solution is heated and uses sodium hydroxide to remove all of the machining oil and chips so we can make sure there’s no debris left on the parts.

You may see the nozzles on either side of the block as it uses high pressure to blow off the oil and dirt.

Also I have brushes that I push though the oil holes making sure there isn’t any residual material left behind."

Honing Complete

2011-09-06T13:37:00.000-07:00

Grinding Valve Seats & Resurfacing the Block

2011-09-01T15:28:00.000-07:00

(Pictures the rebuilder's sent me)

Grinding Away Old Valve Seats and Installing Hardened Stellite Seats

2011-08-31T15:54:00.000-07:00

Video of the computer controlled grinding process

Completed seat ground away ready for seat installation

King Pin Install

2011-08-29T13:44:00.000-07:00

Drivers side spindle

Brake backing plate

Inside of brake drum

Axle "hub caps"

Backing plate, inside

Drivers side spindle

Removed axle seals. These are felt rings held in a retainer. I plan to replace these with modern neoprene seals.

Old king pin and bushing. Two new king pin plugs.

Block Cracks Pinned & Pressure Tested, Head Resurfaced, & Coarse Bored

2011-08-25T10:51:00.000-07:00

Oil Pan Cleanliness and Piston Balancing (Pictures the rebuilder's sent me)

2011-08-24T17:11:00.000-07:00

Connecting Rod Balancing (Pictures the rebuilder's sent me)

2011-08-16T08:23:00.000-07:00

Checking each end and overall. Now all within 0.2 grams

Flywheel Resurfacing and Ring Gear Replace (Pictures the rebuilder's sent me)

2011-08-12T14:54:00.000-07:00

Connecting Rod True Testing (Pictures the rebuilder's sent me)

2011-08-11T15:43:00.000-07:00

Connecting Rod Magnafluxing & Honing (Pictures the rebuilder's sent me)

2011-08-10T13:54:00.000-07:00

Magnafluxing the rods

Grinding the rod ends

Rod end surface after grinding

Grinding Rod caps

Precision mating surfaces

NOS rod bolts

Rods ready for boring

Rod honing

Crankshaft Straightening & Grinding Today (Pictures the rebuilder's sent me)

2011-08-09T16:35:00.000-07:00

Mains 0.03" and Rods 0.10"

More Pics (Pictures the rebuilder's sent me)

2011-08-05T18:40:00.000-07:00

Here is the block after baking and cleaning and magnafluxing. They found two cracks probably cause by freezing. They will pin the cracks.

The two cracks

Close up

Re-Manufacturers Have Started!! (Pictures the rebuilder's sent me)

2011-08-05T15:10:00.000-07:00

Here are some pic that they sent me day one:

Fly wheel actually looks fairly good

Gunk in the sump

Some carbon build up on the head. To be expected with all the oil it burned.

Pistons look fairly good but those rings got to go.

Rod bearing were one size over (0.001")

but mains were not?

Crank journal

Main bearing shot

Water jacket goop accumulated over the last 63 years...

Engine is now off to the Re-Manufacturers

2011-08-03T12:39:00.000-07:00

Shipping Pallet Ready for Shipers

2011-08-01T06:14:00.000-07:00

Speedometer Drive Gear

2011-07-29T05:26:00.000-07:00

Not sure what happened here. The speedometer drive gear shaft bushing is way to big for the shaft. Is there a missing bushing? The transmission housing has a brass bushing in it and the shaft appears to have wear marks.
The bushing inside diameter is 0.25" and the shaft is 0.217".

Here is a pic of the drive gear and shaft pulled out from the housing bushing:

Tranny

2011-07-12T07:46:00.000-07:00

Rebuilding tranny...

1. Mainshaft:
L=1-7/8"
D=1.5"
Splines=10-6
Pilot=0.815"

2. Drive Shaft:
Pilot=0.625"
L=8-3/8"
D=1.125"

3. Counter Saft
L=9-7/16"
D=1"

Gears

2011-07-10T04:44:00.000-07:00

RPM vs MPH

2011-07-09T14:44:00.001-07:00

Chassis and Seat Box ID Tags

2011-06-30T13:39:00.000-07:00

Top is the seat box tag, bottom is (was) the chassis tag

Cherry Picker from Harbor Freight

2011-06-30T13:33:00.000-07:00

Stude Ready

Cherry Picker fits trunk

Box #1

Box #2

Assembled, ready to go

Folded up waiting for the big day...

Tear Down

2011-06-28T10:03:00.000-07:00

Time to remove front sheet metal to remove the engine. There is like a million bolts holding it all together. If I remove the front as a unit it be just a few bolts but it would take 4+ folks to lift the entire front and I wanted to refresh all the bolts anyway.

Hitchcock was not good to Studes...

2011-06-25T19:19:00.000-07:00

A beautiful M5 up in flames (damn birds!)

Cars II

2011-06-24T15:06:00.000-07:00

I saw Cars II today and I can now appreciate Tow-Mater. He would not let anyone take out any of his dents, they represent history and experiences. I already have decided that this truck will be a "rescue" "not a restoration". The difference is about $40,000.00 and shiny paint. I now have a way to preserve the patina, I first sand the rust very lightly to get it smooth. I then clean the surface with a cleaner such as Murphy's soap and finally I give it a good coat and buff with Johnson's paste wax. Sounds crazy?

Tow-Mater

Engine Re-manufacture

2011-06-24T14:59:00.000-07:00

Next up is to send the engine off to MA for a "re-manufacture". Here is their web site:

http://jandm-machine.com/

These guys know what they are doing. This engine will be better than is was when new! I got to package it onto a pallet that will be enclosed by 5/8" plywood. I don't think the truck could make it to Lowes and back so I will have to rent a truck for the lumber. Here is a pic of typical packaging:

Basically, I'll have to purchase a cherry picker from Harbor Freight to pull the engine. Plan is to remove all the front sheet metal, fenders, grill, radiator, and hood. I will also remove the drive line and tranny... Not sure when I'll do this, will have to be out of town in the later half of July, hopefully I can get it shipped before then.

Rear End Done

2011-06-21T15:27:00.000-07:00

Bought a dial indicator set and measured the pinion to ring gear lash and overall lash. Add a 0.025" shim under the inner pinion bearing to move the pinion gear toward the ring gear. Differential side bearing did not have any shims and I could not measure any play in the differential side bearings. I also added shims under the differential side gear thrust washers.

Differential run out = 0.003" (spec = 0;005")
Pinion gear shim = 0.025"
Differential play = not perceptible (spec is 0.008" pre-load)
Differential drag = small (no spec)
Pinion to ring gear lash = 0.015" (at 2" from pinion center = 0.03") (spec = 0.006" - 0.012")
Pinion to axle hub = 0.0515" (at 2" from pinion center = 0.13") (no spec)
Added shims under differential side gear thrust washers = 0.025"

I'm calling this this "adjusted". It now has all new bearings except for the pinion pilot bearing and wheel bearings. There is no doubt that the pinion and ring gears are very worn. I could not get an ideal contact pattern on the ring gear. The pattern is very large covering most of the ring gear tooth. It appears that the dome shape of the teeth is flattened. This is a problem if the differential will be under a lot of load for ant length of time. This is because the pinion is contacting the ring gear teeth on the edge...

Truck Block Diagram

2011-06-18T06:10:00.000-07:00

Bearing Removal Booger

2011-06-16T06:25:00.000-07:00

Removing 4" roller bear cup from axle tube.

Note bend support. That's three 0.25"x1" + one 0.5" square steel stock bending

Adding a slide hammer didn't help

2011-06-14T10:14:00.000-07:00

Passenger side differential case half and the spider and side gears

Side gear thrust washer = 3.565" OD

Side gear thrust washer = 2.5" ID

Side Gear thrust washer thickness = 0.057"

Side gear overall diameter = 4"

Side gear shank diameter = 2.3"

Side gear # of teeth = 20

Side gear axle groove diameter = 1.775"

Side gear # of axle grooves = 16

Differential gear # of teeth = 11

Differential gear bush inside diameter = 0.875"

Differential gear cross end/end = 5.9"

Differential gear cross diameter = 0.875

Differential gear thrust washer diameter = 1.824"

Differential gear thrust washer inside diameter = 0.9"

Driver side case half w/ring gear, 35 teeth (pinion has 6, 35/6 = 5.83 ratio)

Passenger side axle case half

Pinion housing mounted to passenger side axle housing

Passenger side axle housing w/hub attached

Drivers side axle half marked with "Timken 2200-D-264F"

Passenger side axle case half w/pinion installed

Pinion (6 tooth), inner bearing and rear pilot bearing

Passenger side axle half showing Studebaker lazy "S" (not so lazy)

Upholstery Done!

2011-05-23T13:51:00.000-07:00

Stude at Wegmans

2011-05-16T14:26:00.000-07:00

I had to go up a hill in third gear, the engine doesn't have enough poop for fourth gear. I am trying to get more bolder on where I can go with this contraption...

Dogs at Vet Park

2011-05-10T08:44:00.000-07:00

Oscar, Mayer, and I went to the park today for a walk

Seat at the Upholsters, Improvise Egg Crate

2011-05-08T11:07:00.000-07:00

New Shoes Installed

2011-05-08T11:04:00.000-07:00

Shoes Mounted!!!

2011-05-06T11:16:00.000-07:00

Steering Wheel Patched and Primed for Paint

2011-05-03T16:46:00.000-07:00

Floors Installed

2011-05-03T16:45:00.000-07:00

Rims Painted and Ready for Tires

2011-05-03T16:44:00.000-07:00

Production Order from Stude Museum

2011-05-02T16:01:00.000-07:00

Tires Arrived

2011-04-13T10:26:00.000-07:00

4 Goodyear 8R19.5 drivers
2 Goodyear 8R19.5 steerers

Oil Pump Gear Puller

2011-04-05T09:34:00.000-07:00

Radiator Over flow Tank

2011-04-03T17:20:00.000-07:00

I added a radiator over flow tank:

The original design did not have one and you had to add water nearly every time you drove the truck...

New Dash Panel

2011-04-03T17:18:00.000-07:00

I added a new panel to hold an accessory outlet, heater switch, and a dome light selector switch:

Gas Tank Ready for internal Coating

2011-04-03T17:15:00.001-07:00

I will be coating the inside with Hirsch's coating:

Backup Light Installed

2011-04-03T17:14:00.001-07:00

New Reflectors

2011-04-03T17:13:00.001-07:00

Started installing new reflectors:

Dash Installed

2011-04-03T17:12:00.001-07:00

Dash installed with an awesome patina of brown paint and rust:

Wiring Done

2011-04-03T17:11:00.000-07:00

All of the wiring done!

Tranny Gears

2011-04-03T17:09:00.000-07:00

With the top off the tranney, here is a views of the gears:

Actually they are in good shape. A little worn on the edges from grinding engagement...

Added a Reverse Light Switch

2011-04-03T17:06:00.000-07:00

The truck never had one and was not designed for one but I fixed that:

Calculating Max Tire Width

2011-03-12T06:06:00.000-08:00

Getting new floors

2011-03-12T06:00:00.000-08:00

Started putting in the new floor panels. My plan is to use pop rivets and liquid nails. Maybe weld in the future if I decide to do a frame off restoration:

Harness Removed

2011-03-12T05:57:00.000-08:00

Here is part of the electrical harness. I'm rewiring the entire truck with modern wire and connectors. Improvements include:

1. Adding dome light switches
2. Adding backup light and switch
3. Adding a larger fuse block

Tank Painted

2011-03-12T05:53:00.000-08:00

Painted the tank with POR-15. Currently there is a couple of pounds of sheet rock screws inside to help remove the rust. Every now and then I pick up the tank and agitate it. I did order a tank sealer from Hirsch. Next step: remove screws and crap, clean out with several washings of mineral spirits. Then I will start the coating process which involves more cleaning and etching before coating:

Vent Fixed

2011-03-12T05:49:00.000-08:00

Removed a lot of rust and treated with POR-15 and added a new seal:

New Rims!

2011-03-12T05:46:00.000-08:00

Bought a set of 6" x 19.5" TUBELESS rims off ebay. Hoping to save a lot and get a wider selection of tires for the truck. The old 17" split rims were original but I want this truck to be useable and drivable:

Dome Light Door Switches

2011-03-12T05:41:00.001-08:00

Planning to add dome light door switches:

Shift Boots

2011-03-12T05:38:00.000-08:00

Got the pig skin from Tandy for shift boots and maybe visors:

Wing Windows, Gas Tank removal, Installed Plates, Dash...

2011-02-05T18:14:00.000-08:00

New VA plates

Dead fuel sending unit w/cork float

Cleaning of the fuel tank. I had to remove this sucker to get to the sending unit. But I got a service bulletin to add an access plate so I won't have to remove it again...

Both wing window are now installed

Had to pull the dash to get to the instruments, ugly...

Rear Window Install

2011-01-27T09:57:00.000-08:00

In my primary effort to make this truck street legal I am replacing the broken glass. Here are some photos of replacing the rear window. I tried the rope method but that didn't work because the rope cut into the vintage reused moulding. I suspect that the rope method would work fine with new moulding. I have used the rope method in the past with no problems. Si I used the putty knife method which just takes longer...

Window Removed

Glass Installed into Moulding

Window Installation Complete

Wing Window Glass Removed (waiting for setting felt...)

Lights! Action! Drive!

2011-01-21T19:29:00.000-08:00

Got the following lights working
1. Parking front & rear
2. Tail, rear only
3. Brake
4. Directional lights, front & rear, right & left
5. Headlights, Hi & Low beam

Still no dash lights and only the amp meter and oil pressure work. Engine temperature is mechanical with a bulb in the engine and a copper tube to the gauge that some one cut and all the ether leaked out... Speedomter works though.

Took a night ride. Weird not having backup lights. 1948 = primitive. The truck didn't come with directional lights, backup lights, or front directional lights.

Here is the radimeter (temperature) gauge bulb removed from the engine:

No Synchros & Spur Cut Gears

2011-01-19T16:58:00.000-08:00

It's been decades since I had to drive a old school tranny like this one!!! Do I try to double clutch or just try to know when to jam it into gear?

Going for a Quick Ride in the Stude (its not street legal yet...)

2011-01-19T15:20:00.000-08:00

I'll get a better video soon, I need to find a way to attach the Droid in a better place and more securely...

Rear End Assembled

2011-01-19T12:31:00.000-08:00

I received the bearings yesterday and assembled the rear end. Here is the contact pattern using Persian Blue. Not the best pattern, the pinion needs to move closer to the ring geer. Some day I'll figure out the best way to move the pinion:

Got Bearings?

2011-01-17T14:25:00.000-08:00

Finally got the Timken bearings for my pinion from ebay:

Retirement countdown!!!

2011-01-16T20:10:00.000-08:00

Who Said that the Stude M15A-20 Doesn't Have a Personality?

2011-01-16T18:28:00.000-08:00

Each wheel lug nuts are different from the other wheels!!!

The right side wheel lug nuts tighten turning to the right
The left side wheel lug nuts tighten turning to the left
The rear lug nuts are 1-1/8" x 16 (1-1/2" socket)
The front lug nuts are 3/4" x 16 (1-1/2" socket)

Why do I care? I'm missing a right rear lug nut... Nuts!!!

Radimeter

2011-01-16T18:12:00.000-08:00

I just found out that this vintage of truck has a "Radimeter" instead of a temperature gauge. What's the difference? A temperature gauge has an electrical sending unit mounted in the engine block that connects electrically to a electrical meter in the dash. A radimeter is not electrical at all. It has a bulb in the engine block that is connected to the dash gauge through a tube. The whole thing, meter, bulb, and tube are one unit filled with an alcohol solution.

Why do I care? Well someone cut the tube at the firewall and the bulb is AWOL!!!

How do I fix it? Convert to electrical? Research...

Added Oil Filter

2011-01-15T17:36:00.000-08:00

Bought a filter off ebay and installed it:

This oil filter was an option back in 1948. It appears that the truck had one but some one removed it to add a "torque bar" that I removed. Radiator hose is off cause I am also installing a new thermostat that some one removed.

I also ordered electric wiper motors, arms and blades. I am replacing the vacuum motors with electric:

Pinion Dilemma Solved

2011-01-08T08:16:00.000-08:00

OK, I got the bearing off. Had to grind it off. Tried freezing the whole pinion in the freezer and heating just the bearing race but that didn't work:

Also, here is the dead mouse I found under the seat. It seems that he made a nice nest out of the seat stuffing. No matter, I plan on reupholstering the seat anyway...

What this blog is about

2011-01-07T18:24:00.000-08:00

I started this blog to chronicle the plight of the restoration (of sorts) of my 1948 Studebaker M15A-20 stake bed dually:

I had quite a hassle getting it from Oregon, most of the carriers did not want to haul a wide vehicle. Actually, I think it was because this vehicle is less than appealing... I bought this truck from Mark off of ebay.

So, I got the truck and I am now trying to get it street legal in Virginia. I now have a registration and antique plates. There is a lot wrong with it. First, the engine needed a lot of work and will need to be rebuilt sometime in the near future mostly because it burns oil (shot oil rings). Fortunately, I like rebuilding engines.

Here is a list of things I have done:

1. Rebuilt carburetor
2. Repaired heat riser valve
3. Repaired oil pump
4. Repaired vacuum and mechanical distributor advances
5. Replaced plug wires (not very necessary but I wanted super wires)
6. Removed unauthorized torque strap
7. Replaced oil bypass valve
8. Replaced rear motor mount
9. ebay'd air filter
10. Replaced busted shift knob with the knob from my old F250 4x4 (same shift pattern)

I am now in the process of repairing the pinion inner bearing on the differential. Here is what it looked like when I removed it:

As you can see, the tapered roller bearing cage is all gone and the rollers are flopping around willy- nilly. Good news is that I have new bearings coming from ebay. There was not a drop of lube in the differential!!! I am also replacing the points with a magnetic pickup and a super coil. I am hoping that the combo (along with MSD wires) will cut threw the oil... Also I working on a wiper replacement. The original wipers are vacuum actuated and really suck when pulling a load uphill (vacuum goes to zero when engine is under a big load). Fortunately, there are a several electrical options.

I have got new glass for the wings and rear window, I now have to order the rubber for them.

Oh, did I say that ALL the electrical needs to be redone? About the only thing that works is the ignition, the generator, the horn, and the heater. Everything else: kaput!

Start of this blog

2011-01-07T17:41:00.001-08:00

Well, here is my first post...RYRYRYRY The little brown fox jumped over the lazy dog's back...